Winter looks as if the right time to discover an organization that referred to its rhinestone jewellery as ice. Sure, even when promoting early Eisenberg Authentic items, the corporate described its jewellery this fashion though items weren’t really marked Eisenberg Ice till a lot later.
Many collectors know that Eisenberg & Sons, based in Chicago, acquired began within the jewellery enterprise by stitching rhinestone gildings to clothes within the 1930s. The notion that Eisenberg expanded their jewellery advertising as a result of the baubles have been being stolen off clothes, nevertheless, is basically a delusion in accordance with jewellery historians. As an alternative, it appears to be a easy case of economic success.
As the recognition of promoting jewellery together with clothes grew, finally these sew-on baubles morphed into detachable brooches and gown clips. These have been bought with blue velvet-lined containers for storage. The jewellery wasn’t really designed or produced by Eisenberg although.
Agnini & Singer, additionally a Chicago-based firm, started their affiliation with Eisenberg by making buttons for his or her clothes. This enterprise was additionally the primary to make jewellery for Eisenberg. Many of those older items are unmarked so with out one of many firm’s unique design playing cards, it may be exhausting to attribute the jewellery appropriately. Among the unique design playing cards are proven on the Costume Jewellery Collector’s Int’l web site however many extra are held within the firm’s archives.
Because the demand for rhinestone jewellery grew within the 1930s, Eisenberg started advertising it extra critically. In addition they cast a brand new relationship within the mid-1930s with Fallon & Kappel. Eisenberg representatives would go to the Fallon & Kappel showroom in New York and choose kinds to be produced with their branding. Ruth Kamke, who finally grew to become the first designer for Eisenberg jewellery throughout this era, sketched a number of the most fascinating designs sought by collectors as we speak. Just a few of those designs have been patented by Fallon & Kappel in 1942, and so they have been registered by Florence Nathan who was not a designer.
Eisenberg Jewellery acquired its personal division throughout the group in 1943, and by that point Fallon & Kappel was their solely producer. Throughout this era, wartime metallic rationing led to the transfer from utilizing pot metallic to sterling silver in Eisenberg items. This was additionally the period wherein the slogan “Eisenberg Ice” was utilized in promoting. Some have been even marketed as “Collector Items” after they have been new as a result of excessive value factors.
It wasn’t till later within the 1940s that Eisenberg branched out and commenced promoting jewellery in stores aside from their very own gown salons. When manufacturing restrictions have been lifted after World Struggle II ended, jewellery made with rhodium plated metallic was extra the norm. Their designs modified as effectively from the sooner pot metallic items with clear rhinestones and sterling silver figurals to items incorporating extra coloured rhinestones. Shopper demand for up to date kinds drove a number of the shift, however the brand new seems to be have been additionally mass producible yielding decrease costs. The related success led Eisenberg to cease making clothes to in 1958 to give attention to jewellery gross sales.
The Timeless Enchantment
An unique settlement between Fallon & Kappel and Eisenberg purportedly remained in place by way of 1972 (the yr Fallon & Kappel closed). This is probably not solely true, nevertheless, as a result of a minimum of one Rhode Island manufacturing facility employee recalled making jewellery items for each Eisenberg (a few of which have been marked Eisenberg Ice) and Weiss within the late 1950s and ‘60s. Related jewellery designs stamped with every mark respectively assist this declare.
Within the 1990s the model was resurrected, and new designs have been made utilizing the Eisenberg Ice model. These embody quite a lot of Christmas tree pins and a number of other patriotic jewellery items in addition to others. A few of these are good collectibles however the plating and high quality is probably not as excessive as with older jewellery by Eisenberg.
Relying on desirability and rarity, nevertheless, values will be comparable. As an illustration, Eisenberg Authentic pot metallic items with clear rhinestones from the 1930s now promote in the identical vary as a number of the extra fascinating Christmas jewellery items marked Eisenberg Ice made many years later.
Eisenberg Valuation and Fakes
Many people assert that fakes produced and marketed many years in the past killed the classic Eisenberg market. That’s partially true since some collectors shrink back from manufacturers they know to be reproduced. In truth although, the variety of fakes circulating within the market is comparatively small. That’s to not say you shouldn’t query authenticity when one thing appears off, however most Eisenberg Authentic items being bought by veteran sellers are certainly genuine.
Nonetheless, costs for older Eisenberg items on the whole are at an all-time low except for the rarest designs. Yow will discover Eisenberg Authentic brooches (which incorporates gown clips and fur clips) with clear rhinestones for lower than $150 and that wasn’t at all times the case. A part of the depressed value on extra widespread items comes from an absence of demand, however that may seemingly flip round as new collectors uncover the fantastic thing about Eisenberg sooner or later.
For those who’re simply getting began, be cautious of coloured rhinestone items or uncommon figurals marked Eisenberg Authentic that appear priced within the too-good-to-be-true vary. On the opposite facet of the dimensions, be ready to do some comparison-shopping and on-line analysis earlier than laying out an enormous sum on some of the fascinating items. The Eisenberg Authentic mermaid is one which involves thoughts.
Assets for Additional Analysis
Learning genuine items, together with holding them in your hand, is one of the best ways to change into acquainted with older Eisenberg, particularly in case you’re involved about fakes. For those who’re nonetheless not capable of do a lot in-person purchasing at this cut-off date, items being bought by on-line sellers you belief in addition to perusing references guides are good backups.
Acquiring a duplicate of Eisenberg Originals by Sharon Schwartz and Lauren Sutton is an efficient place to begin. I’d additionally recommend trying out Sutton’s on-line useful resource known as “The Eisenberg Undertaking” to be taught extra about marks (as a result of some are signed with solely an “E” in script). The positioning is a bit of tough by way of spacing, which makes it a bit exhausting to learn. Regardless, the data there may be helpful and attention-grabbing.